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Culinary Hatchet - November 2008

D'Amico and Sons-Corporate Eatery

Through the years, D'Amico and Sons Italian fast-casual restaurants in the Twin Cities have made it clear that appealing to demographic groups far outweighs making interesting and tasty offerings.
In 2004, D'Amico changed some things about their menu. The menu boards themselves got a pink border and their best offering by far, the pan roasted pork loin and replaced it with chicken saltimboca. Other feminine friendly offerings came through, like the "chicken-walnut-apple salad." They did this because their research showed that rich, jobless moms are their key demographic.
I hadn't been there in a while, but they still make pretty good food even though almost none of it is freshly made; most of the meat is precooked as are some of the veggies, and the pasta salads aren't necessarily made every day. The one I went to was all new construction, so I really couldn't tell the difference between it and a Pot Belly Sandwich Works or some chain hell hole which I'm sure is what the D'Amico youngsters love. The Sausage Penne, a very tasty dish be it not traditional Italian, was still great. What changed are the pizzas which lost at least an inch in circumference and gained an inch of crust! They used to be the best brick oven pizzas in the Twin Cities but now are smaller, more expensive and options don't include one of their best offerings: a mushroom and fresh mozzarella with tomato puree. Nope, just a Neapolitan that I ate in 3 minutes.

The D'Amico bros obviously want this place to catch on around the country which wouldn't be bad in theory in that it could challenge the horrible Olive Garden, but expansion rarely comes without loss of quality and sacrificing originality for the almighty buck.
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Lunch at Fogo de Chao

I've had dinner at Fogo de Chao, the Brazilian steakhouse chain, and it's almost perfect; tender cuts of steak, pork ribs and loin, bacon wrapped meat hunks brought to your table for you like a buffet for the worst of the lazy American stereotypes with plenty of carbs right at the table. The servers are many and very attentive, drinks are kept full and all meats make equal trips around the restaurant. It is worth the, about, $60 dinner would cost.
3 friends and myself decided to go after 1pm to avoid too much of a rush and easily got a table. First at Fogo, you are told to go up to the salad bar which most of us don't want to do but feel the need to anyways. At the salad bar are a number of veggies, hard boiled eggs, salads, dried and cured meats and fine cheeses and turns out to be worth the trip as long as you don't fill up.

Not long after you sit back down do the sides come out, which are a whipped potato, fried plantain dish and little bread rolls. As soon as you get the veggie plate out of your way, you flip a two sided card over from red to green which means "go" for the waiters carrying around whole cuts of meat. It's a Vegan's nightmare


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BATTER BLASTER!

Batter Blaster: a way to spray pre-made pancake batter onto a griddle or pan. Sounds bad, right? Well, Batter Blaster happens to be organic. This has to be a first; that a company pioneering food technology's magical invention just happens to be organic. Not pressured to be organic or remove bad products, it skipped all that and started organic.
This is possibly also the fastest breakfast since the Pop-Tart. For those who don't like pancakes drenched in corn syrup, a light baste of butter and syrup and a rolled pancake is a fast breakfast on the go. For the "big breakfast," not having to mix up a bowl of ingredients, even instant pancakes (which are full of weird stuff) saves a lot of prep time.
The bad thing about the Batter Blaster is it's hard to know when you're going to run out, so you might plan on pancakes for breakfast and end up with pancake.

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